Casa Santiago

Virgílio Santiago opened the tavern in 1974, and his son Júlio runs it now. Júlio says this is where choco frito was invented, and the family keeps the crown as its emblem, down to a neon crown in the dining room and the house monogram on the plates.

Like any good royal story, there is a rival. In 1987 Virgílio’s brother, Leonel, opened his own place at the other end of Avenida Luísa Todi, and the two ends of the avenue have competed over the best choco in the city ever since.

While you wait for a table, children can have their photo taken with Choco Pessoa, a cuttlefish sculpture by the artist Zé Nova that sits beside the restaurant.

The menu is short. A full portion of choco frito comes without sides and is big enough for two. When Inspire Setúbal visited, it was €15, a half portion of chips was €1.60 and a salad €3.20. A diner in 2026 reported paying about €14 for a half portion that was still enough to share. Order one portion with chips and salad for an adult and a child, then add more if needed.

The cheapest way to try it is the choco sandwich, a bread roll filled with fried cuttlefish that customers in a hurry eat at the counter. It was €3 in the Inspire Setúbal review.

For a child who will not try cuttlefish at all, there is roast meat (carne assada), which the same review says is usually what the youngest diners choose.

This is a no-frills tavern, popular enough to have a queue at the door, so arrive early for lunch or dinner. Most of the time the wait is short. There is a covered, glazed terrace that is used all year, and a more rustic dining room inside with air conditioning. Service is quick and efficient but brief. Takeaway is available if the children would rather eat by the river.

All About Portugal lists weekday hours of 12:00 to 15:00 and 18:00 to 22:00, and the kitchen closes between lunch and dinner. Weekend opening varies between listings, and in earlier reports it was closed on Sundays. We did not find an official website, so phone before a special trip.

Casa Santiago is at the east end of Avenida Luísa Todi, facing the sardine roundabout (rotunda das sardinhas) and the ferries to Tróia. Behind it are the Museu do Trabalho (the museum of work) and the old São Sebastião neighbourhood with its viewpoint.

The ferry to Tróia leaves from just across the road, and dolphin-watching boat trips set off from the nearby docks to look for the Sado estuary’s resident bottlenose dolphins. For a beach, Praia de Albarquel has calm estuary water and a playground on the edge of the city, and Praia da Figueirinha is a short drive into the Arrábida hills. From late July to early August the Feira de Santiago runs in the evenings.

What is choco frito?

Cuttlefish, a relative of squid, cut into strips, fried and served with chips, lemon and salad. It is Setúbal’s best-known dish.

Is it good for children?

For children who will eat fried fish and chips, yes. It is quick and simple, and there is roast meat for anyone who refuses cuttlefish.

Do you need to book?

Expect to queue at busy times and arrive early. You can phone +351 265 221 688 to check hours.

How much does it cost?

About €15 to €20 a head. A full portion was €15 in an older review and feeds two; the choco sandwich was about €3.