Praia do Sul (Praia da Baleia)

Praia do Sul, also called Praia da Baleia (Whale Beach), is the beach on the south side of Ericeira’s town centre, an easy walk down from the old streets. Mafra council describes it as a family place where everyone knows each other. The striped tents and beach huts mark out the different concessions, each with its regular families, and the council says it feels like stepping back in time. The Vila Galé hotel, once the Hotel de Turismo, stands above it.

For parents, what matters is the shelter. The Ponta de Santa Marta, a rocky headland at the northern end, keeps off the north wind. The council calls Praia do Sul one of the safest bathing areas on this stretch of the Atlantic, while noting that there are still enough waves for surfers and bodyboarders.

The Portuguese Environment Agency (APA) describes Praia da Baleia as a long beach surrounded by cliffs, with a small natural pool formed on its northern side. At the right tide, it’s a good spot for young children to crouch over the water and see what lives there. Go gently: look without lifting rocks or taking anything home, and hold small hands on the wet, slippery rock.

It’s the most sheltered sea beach in Ericeira, with lifeguards from 9:00 to 19:00 in season, which makes it the obvious choice for families with toddlers who want to paddle in the sea. It’s still the Atlantic: the APA lists waves of special value here and a risk of rockfall from the cliffs. Keep small children at the water’s edge with an adult, swim between the flags, and set up your towels away from the base of the cliffs.

Mafra council’s season page also has advice on jellyfish and Portuguese man o’ war (caravela-portuguesa), in case of stings. It suggests rinsing a sting with seawater, then applying ice for about 15 minutes for a jellyfish, or hot compresses at about 40°C (or undiluted vinegar) for a man o’ war, and seeing a doctor or pharmacist if the pain doesn’t settle.

Mafra’s 2026 bathing season ran from 13 June to 13 September. Praia do Sul had lifeguards and the SOS Praia emergency system, and it flew the Blue Flag. The APA rates the water “excellent”. Its profile says a small stream to the south can carry pollution after heavy rain, for a day or two at most, and there were no days of bathing advised against in 2025.

The council lists beach concessions, public changing rooms and a shower. The APA adds toilets, a first-aid post, beach support services and parking. It isn’t listed as an accessible beach and has no amphibious chair, so wheelchair users will do better at Foz do Lizandro or Ribeira d’Ilhas.

The easiest way in is on foot from the town. Parking in central Ericeira is tight in summer. In summer 2025 Carris Metropolitana’s seasonal line 2123 stopped at Praia Sul, linking it with Foz do Lizandro to the south and Ribeira d’Ilhas to the north. Buses from Lisbon and Mafra arrive at the Ericeira bus terminal, a walk away.

Just north of the headland is Praia dos Pescadores (Fishermen’s Beach), right below the old town and next to the small fishing harbour. The council calls it the most historic beach in the municipality: on 5 October 1910, after the Republic was declared, the Portuguese royal family left from here for exile. It’s also sheltered from south and south-east winds. It’s lifeguarded in season, but it has only a small mobile beach bar, and the APA classes its water as “good” rather than “excellent”, partly because of the fishing harbour.

In July and August the concessions and tents take up a lot of the sand, so arrive early for a spot near the water. It’s a town beach, so don’t expect wild nature. Parking nearby is hard. And the water is cold, as everywhere on this coast.

Walk the town and stop at the free World Surfing Reserve interpretation centre on Praça da República, which has a big model of the coast and the seabed. On a rainy day there’s the Ericeira municipal pool, and skaters can try the Boardriders skatepark. The Mafra National Palace is a short drive inland.

Which Ericeira beach is best for small children?

Praia do Sul. Mafra council calls it one of the safest bathing areas on this coast because the Ponta de Santa Marta shelters it from the north wind. The river side of Foz do Lizandro, just south, is the other good choice.

Is there a lifeguard at Praia do Sul?

Yes, from 9:00 to 19:00 during the bathing season, which ran from 13 June to 13 September in 2026.

Can you walk there from the centre?

Yes. The council says it’s close to the centre and easy to reach on foot.

Is there a rock pool?

The APA mentions a small natural pool on the northern side of the beach. How much you see depends on the tide.

Can you rent a beach tent?

The striped tents and umbrellas belong to the beach concessions. Ask at the concession on the day.